Places

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India's first dark-sky reserve and its observatory, at 4,300 m on the Changthang

The richest monastery in Ladakh, its summer festival, and the snow leopards of its national park

The halfway town on the Srinagar–Leh road, gateway to the Suru valley and Zanskar

The oldest gompa in Ladakh and the moonland, on the Srinagar–Leh highway

The capital of Ladakh at 3,500 m: palace, stupa, the Indus gompas, and two days to acclimatise

Over Khardung La to Diskit, the dunes and camels of Hunder, and Turtuk

The 134 km blue lake on the China border, over Chang La from Leh

The high Changthang lake at 4,520 m, with Korzok its only village